Flush Riveting Stab Skins
Continued flush riveting on the skins. Like any big task as I've discovered, it's going to take me a lot longer to complete then I'd originally thought. There's just no way to go fast on this when working alone. I'm doing about 25 rivets/hour when shop head access is good. It slows down from there if access is bad. I have to first decide which bucking bar to use based on rivet access and orientation. I've wrapped them all in duct tape to avoid marring the structure and left critical areas exposed. The very small bar I bought for the rudder has proven to be very handy in certain situations. Same for the long one. For the majority I use the middle sized one. I have to worm one hand inside the structure to position and hold the bar. I secure the rivet in the hole with a piece of scotch tape over the factory head. This prevents me from pushing the rivet out of the hole and gives me a target to keep the rivet gun centered. Then while blindly going by feel holding the bar in place I have to position the rivet gun on the tape and underlying factory head. While holding everything steady and square I tickle the trigger to initially set the rivet. Once I'm confident of the initial set I reposition everything and give the gun 2-3 harder squeezes to set the rivet. The mass of the bar I'm using affects how much gun time is needed to set the rivet. I have to then remove my arm and bar to inspect the shop head and repeat as needed until satisfactory. Above all I'm trying to avoid a bad rivet that needs to be replaced. So far, so good but I'm not even 50% done yet. One rivet at a time...
This post is from Scott's RV-14 Build