More Rudder Priming and Structure Prep
Spent the day prepping and priming the internal rudder structure then clecoing it all together. Haven't heard back from Vans yet regarding my email about the rudder counterweight but I'm leaning to buying a new weight to do the countersinking correctly in the first place. I called Van's Tech Support again this morning to query why the plastic tie wrap clip that's installed at the bottom of the rudder spar uses both double sided tape AND a pulled rivet. Seemed like overkill but maybe there was a good reason. They emailed me back stating that originally the clip was installed with only double sided tape but it became unsecure over time so they added the pulled rivet. They also stated I could delete the tape. So I used a small drop of super glue to secure it in the position I wanted, then installed a pulled rivet per plans.
I also purchased 3 more cans of the SEM grey self etching primer. I've used 2 cans so far on the vertical stab and rudder parts. Overall I like how it goes on and the finished look it gives all the parts. My technique of scuffing the metal with a red Scotchbrite pad, wiping it down with mineral spirits first and then rubbing alcohol last while wearing disposable gloves seems to work fine. I've been giving everything 3 light coats, drying with a heat gun between coats so it's a pretty quick process. For safety I've been wearing a respirator rated for those kind of paint fumes and I wear disposable gloves while painting. So far adhesion and durability seem good. It's tough to tell what the total weight of the paint will be but I think it'll be less then 10 pounds. I'm keeping track of how many cans I use and when I can I'll weigh a full can and and empty can to see the difference. I'd estimate that only 60-70% of the total paint weight ends up on the parts. Much of it is overspray on the butcher paper covered table I use for painting.
This post is from Scott's RV-14 Build