Roughing out the vertical stabilizer
Vertical stab skin clecoed on
Spent all afternoon working on the ribs and spar. Figured out fluting thanks to the EAA videos on the subject and successfully straightened each ribs slight bend. Read and re-read Section 5 on rib faceting. Then carefully worked the ribs with the Scotchbrite wheel so all flange notch and leading edge transitions for any overlying skin would be smooth. Got the frame clecoed together then it was time to install the skin. Not much guidance on exactly how to do that. Working alone I was using caution since they are big, awkward components. Per Vans guidance I've been leaving all blue plastic on the components while match drilling then removing narrow strips along rivet lines with my soldering iron. I found the best way to get the skin on was to put it leading edge down on a rubber mat then lower the frame into it. I spread apart the 2 halves of the skin to allow the frame to settle as deep into the leading edge as possible. Then carefully drew the trailing edges up to the aft spar where I could get a cleco installed. After getting 4 or so clecos installed along the aft spar I started looking at how the skins wrapped around the leading edges of the 2 ribs. Not seeing any creases or faceting I continues clecoing inspecting the the nose ribs frequently for signs of deformation which I didn't see. A word of caution. When fluting the very forward flanges on each rib I used caution not to flute on any predrilled rib flange holes. When installed the very forward hole on the skin must be match drilled onto the rib where there is no hole. I had put flutes right where that hole goes. So I had to remove them, which wasn't hard but I was annoyed there's no warning not to flute the forward rib flanges in that spot.
This post is from Scott's RV-14 Build